Snuggled among the southeastern foothills of the Bighorn Mountains, quiet, attractive BUFFALO remains largely unaffected by the bustle of the nearby I-90/I-25 intersection. Although Main Street , now lined with frontier-style stores, used to be an old buffalo trail, the place was actually named after Buffalo, New York. The Jim Gatchell Museum , 100 Fort St, stacked full of Old West curiosities pertaining to soldiers, ranchers and Native Americans, is well worth a visit (June-Aug daily 8am-8pm; May, Sept & Oct Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; $2).

Pick up information from the visitor center , 55 N Main St (summer Mon-Fri 8am-6pm, Sat & Sun 10am-6pm; rest of year Mon-Fri 8am-5pm; tel 307/684-5544 or 1-800/227-5122, ). The Clear Creek Trail System , which runs through town, makes for a nice stroll, while a drink at the lovingly restored c.1880 Occidental Hotel - which once changed hands in a high-stakes poker game - is a must. Decent rooms can be had at the cozy, log-built Mountain View Motel , 585 Fort St (tel 307/684-2881; $35-50), and the historic Mansion House Motel , 313 N Main St (tel 307/684-2218 or 1-888/455-9202; $50-75); the latter's rates include a continental breakfast. Tom's , 41 N Main St, is an excellent local diner, while the best restaurant in town is the Winchester Steakhouse , 117 E Hwy-16 (tel 307/684-8636).